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Whenever compiling a list of London’s top eateries, one might foresee renowned high-end establishments. However, situated high among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu situated in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

This compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the proprietors completely surprised.

“I am utterly shocked,” states a family member, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their modest place securing such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its former feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the fare, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent texture.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this gastronomic honour.