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While fresh talent at Chanel and Dior sparked plenty of noise during the ongoing Paris fashion week, it was the inaugural presentation from the iconic brand that utterly dominated the public's attention. The event featured a unexpected guest: Meghan Markle, making her return to the European scene in a trio of years.

During the Saturday evening in the city of lights, the spectacle of Chanel, Dior – plus Lauren Sanchez – paled in comparison with the sheer impact of the Balenciaga show.

The Duchess brought an extra layer of glamour and excitement to the fashion event.

Until that moment, the prevailing sentiment surrounding Pierpaolo Piccioli’s debut had been quite calm. The fashion house is a highly respected name, and the designer is widely recognized as a master of his craft. Additionally, he is cherished for his image of the most congenial figure in the industry. The general expectation was that dramatic fashion statements had left the Balenciaga building with the move of the edgy designer Demna to a competing brand. But, even the nicest guys pull off unexpected moves, and the royal benediction greatly increased the media frenzy.

Piccioli considers himself an design visionary, creating shapes that avoid direct contact with the human form.

Intriguingly, the main idea of the collection's guiding philosophy, as he detailed it after the show, was women's liberation. His starting point was the iconic sack dress from 1957, a shape that stands away from the body, neither amplifying nor restricting a female form. According to Piccioli that this style was a bold statement of a changing spirit of the times that was beginning to move from the 1950s conservatism towards the liberation of the 1960s. The idea centered on female empowerment. It released women from the weight of clothes that sit on their body and focus on their anatomy. The sack dress enabled women to exist unencumbered.”

Balenciaga’s most iconic silhouettes were included in the presentation, such as this structured outerwear.

Clothes that hold their form are central to the Balenciaga's philosophy. Piccioli compared this design methodology to being an architect: constructing shapes that avoid direct interaction with the body, while continuously keeping in mind the individuals who will occupy these creations. The founder was obsessed with the body and with materials, and with a third element – the space in between.”

Leading the presentation was a contemporary update of the loose-fitting garment, elongated to an ankle-skimming hem, worn with long gloves – but also with oversized sunglasses that functioned as a obvious reference to the futuristic edge of the brand's recent past.

The designer, who at his current age adorns himself with beaded necklaces and radiates an air of hippie-ish serenity, rejects the idea of seeing design as a personal rivalry. He argues that it is more admirable for designers to appreciate each other’s abilities. The creative director noted that he was aiming for a successful fusion between the haute couture heritage of the fashion label, and its more recent streetwear era. Classic designs from the house were prominently featured in the show: a structured coat, this time in a bold green hue, and a trapeze dress in a powerful violet tone.

The archetype of Parisian style has become a lucrative industry. Michael Rider is an designer from the US, but he understands this aesthetic perfectly. Rider had a professional relationship with the renowned designer during her tenure at the house, and then worked for several years building the classic label into a flagship for accessible taste. In his current role, he is infusing the inclusive spirit of his previous work to Parisian style. So there were timeless coats, woven bags, and elegant scarves draped on handbags – all the motifs of French-girl chic – presented in bright hues, with an positive transatlantic vibe. The brand is welcoming, or a brand that wants to exclude people,” the designer explained following the event. My desire is that everyone feels desirable in Celine. When you wear this brand, you may not have the wildest design, but you have the best coat, and you have the attitude to wear it.”